The city of Cusco is one of Peru's most important - and most visited - travel destinations, and for good reason: this was the heart of the Inca Empire, a place where all the myth and legend of ancient Andean societies found their most visible and enduring expressions. And that legacy is everywhere; in the city's great ruins and the enormous stone walls that remain standing to this day, in the surrounding villages that have been continuously inhabited for countless centuries and in the faces of the Quechua-speaking locals - people who have seen empires come and go, while their culture and traditions remain as vibrant as ever.
But what what you won't read in most of the guides is that all is not necessarily well in this most popular of popular tourist hotspots. Cusco is a city inundated by visiting outsiders, flocking to experience the city's stunning architecture and its proximity to Peru's other major draw cards, Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley.
Cusco is struggling under the strain of its own popularity and it is hugely important that visitors are mindful of their impact on the city, environment and culture that they are visiting. This covers the obvious: try to limit your environmental impact and not worsen the city's congestion problem by zipping around in taxis or small tour buses, ask before taking anyone's photograph and don't be surprised if your subject expects a Sol or two in return.
But also try to learn a little about the culture you're visiting before you arrive. Understand that indigenous Andean communities are often more conservative than Hispanic Peruvians and Westerners, and that for them, many of the must see tourist sights are actually deeply sacred places.
Your Peru Guide: Cusco Highlights In Pictures
The Plaza de Armas is Cusco's old colonial centre, dominated by the Cathedral and several churches. The Cathedral and the Church of the Companion of Jesus are well worth a visit, especially the Cathedral's collection of art from the Cusco School, a blending of indigenous and European influences that represents the cultural assimilation that took place here following the conquest.
The ruins of Saqsaywaman sit on a hilltop looking down over the city and are constructed of enormous stone blocks and impressive fortifications, making everyone assume the place was originally a military fortress. But recent discoveries have suggested the site was at least as important as a spiritual centre. Despite this, the jagged pattern of the walls are still recognisable as the fearsome jaguar teeth they were first intended to replicate.
The neighbourhood of San Blas rises up away from the centre on a steep hillside, and his home to a warren of winding cobbled streets, small squares and original colonial architecture. San Blas gets even more atmospheric at night when the area's bars come alive. Live music and drinks offers can be found in virtually any of the bars around the popular KM 0. They're all tried, tested and recommended.
Visiting Tips
Cusco is a high altitude city. Over 3,300 meters high. And that means very thin air for us sea-level dwellers, which can take several days getting used to. In fact, it's advisable to work your way up to this altitude and visit some of Peru's slightly lower sights first - Arequipa and the Sacred Valley are ideal. If you fly straight to Cusco from Lima, expect at least a tinge of soroche (altitude sickness) which can cause lethargy, headaches and vomiting. Don't overexert yourself, don't overindulge (especially with the booze), and feel free to try a mouthful of coca leaves, or at least some coca leaf tea, which really does help.
Most visitors to Cusco feel obliged to invest in the boleto turistico (tourist ticket) which is required for most of the city's museums and other sights. The ticket is expensive though, and although it is valid for ten days, most visitors staying in Cusco for a few days don't end up getting its full value. Only buy it if you want to visit all the sights that are included, and bear in mind that some of the city's best museums and other attractions (the ruins of Qorikancha, the Cathedral, the Museum of Pre-Colombian Art and the Inca Museum) are not included.
Saying that, the nearby ruins of Saqsaywaman and most sights in the Sacred Valley are all pretty much must-see places, and they're all included in the ticket, so the choice is yours.
Everyone knows that Paddington Bear arrived in England from Deepest Darkest Peru. That description of his homeland arises from the dense, brooding rainforests covering large areas of the country but of course that's only part of what makes holidays to Peru so special.
There are the mighty Andes mountains rising up out of the dark green blanket of jungle and the rivers, notably the incomparable Amazon that for centuries were the only way into the heartland of the country. As if the breathtaking scenery alone were not enough to make Peru Holidays the most unforgettable you could ever experience there's more. There's the romance and history of the country. The Incas and the Spanish Conquistadores have left us the most intriguing relics to remind us of their dramatic stories.
If hiking is your thing you can go Trekking Peru and follow ancient tracks to the Sacred Valley of the Incas and visit Machu Picchu, the lost city of the Incas which sits on a high saddle between two much higher peaks in the mountains North West of Cuzco. Here you begin to get some idea of the mighty empire of the Incas and the advanced civilisation they created so long ago.
The ruins you gaze at today in awe and wonder lay hidden from the eyes of outsiders for centuries before being re-discovered as recently as 1911 by an archaeologist from Yale University in the United States, one Hiram Bingham. It's due to his efforts, and it must have been tremendous undertaking especially back then, that you're able to see this wonder of the ancient world today and from it learn so much about the Incas and their way of life. So remember old Hiram and his companions.
Not far from the Urubamba valley, known as the Sacred Valley, lies the Regional Capital, Cusco, often spelled "Cuzco". This city was the capital of the Inca Empire from about the 1200s to 1535 when it was sacked by the conquistadores led by Francisco Pizarro.
Although several of the buildings erected by the conquistadores were practically destroyed in a severe earthquake in 1950 most of the old Inca structures survived and their remains can be seen to this day. Your Andean adventure should certainly include a visit to this city where modern life goes on amid so much history.
High in the Andes you must find your way to the highest commercially navigable lake in the world, lake Titicaca, 12507 feet (3812m if you must) above sea level. It's also the largest lake in South America in terms of volume of water. As you gaze across the lake from Peru the next land on the far side is Bolivia. You can take excursions by boat on the lake and explore its islands.
Of course all of these well known sites such as Manchu Picchu and Cuzco, so rich in Inca heritage and Lake Titicaca too are unmissable visits for all Peru holidays but they are still only part of what this incredible country has to offer.
One feature you can't miss of course because of its sheer size is the mighty Amazon. Whether it's the longest river in the world or the second longest seems to be the subject of some debate. What is certain is that it's the largest in terms of volume of water flow. In fact one fifth of all the water that flows along all the world's rivers flows down the Amazon.
The mouth of the Amazon is in Brazil on the Atlantic coast of South America while its source is in Peru so anywhere in Peru is a long way upstream. Nevertheless the river in Peru is already large enough for quite large vessels to use it and it has long been the easiest means of access to large areas of the country. Today trekking Peru usually involves travelling by boat at least some of the time.
You can spend a whole holiday in Peru on and near to the Amazon or one of its many tributaries. Kayaking is very popular for those who want to get really close to nature but if comfort is more your thing there are various cruises on the rivers with knowledgeable local guides.
In Peru as elsewhere in South America the rain forests are under threat from various factors and you won't want to add to the problems. Tourism has to be sustainable in these sensitive areas so when you look for a holiday company which arranges Peru holidays it's important to choose one that can demonstrate its commitment to sustainability in all its activities.
Peru is a long way away from the UK so make your journey worthwhile by allowing yourself as much time there as possible. It'll be an experience you will never forget.